Walking Hadrian’s Wall – part 2 & 3. Carlisle to Banks & Banks to Once Brewed

Hadrian’s Wall – Days 2 & 3: Carlisle to Banks and Banks to Once Brewed

Day 2: Carlisle to Banks – Leaving the City Behind

After a night in Carlisle, set out just after breakfast, crossing the River Eden as the early light shimmers over the water. The city slowly fades behind you, replaced by quiet footpaths and rolling farmland. Although the Wall itself is no longer visible in this stretch, the route follows the Vallum and embankments—you can feel the Roman presence even when you can’t see the stone.

For the first few miles, the walking is gentle and relaxed. Lanes lined with hawthorn and elder weave through sleepy villages like Crosby-on-Eden and Low Crosby. The peacefulness is broken only by birdsong and the occasional bleat of sheep. It’s a perfect introduction to the more rugged days to come.

By mid-morning the landscape becomes more open, dotted with dry-stone walls and old farmsteads. Suggest stopping near Newtown for a snack and a moment to appreciate how the countryside widens as you approach the heart of the Wall country.

A highlight came in the afternoon near Walton, where earthworks are still visible, tracing the ancient line of Rome’s northern frontier. From here, the path begins to hint at the dramatic scenery to come—slight rises, distant ridges, and more pronounced contours.

Reaching Banks feels like a milestone. It’s only a small hamlet, but the views begin to stretch further, and the Wall remnants at Banks East Turret and Pike Hill Signal Tower mark the return of visible history. Settle into accommodation nearby, with just enough evening light left to wander over to Banks Turret and watch the sun dip behind the hills. A peaceful end to a pastoral day.

Day 3: Banks to Once Brewed – Into the Heart of the Wall

Day 3 From Banks onwards, the walk transforms dramatically. The Wall begins to emerge in long, solid stretches. The landscape shifts from gentle farmland to rugged undulations and dramatic escarpments.

After passing Hare Hill, one of the best-preserved standing sections of the Wall, the terrain becomes more demanding but much more rewarding. The climb up towards Steel Rigg offers the first real panoramic views—distant hills, patchwork fields, and that unmistakable sweep of Roman stone winding along the ridge.

Mileage feels slower today, not just because of the hills but because there’s so much to stop and admire: milecastles perched on ridgelines, deep drops into the Vallum, and occasional interpretive signs that bring Roman life into focus.

A short detour to Birdoswald Roman Fort (if you choose to visit) gives an excellent insight into the lives of soldiers stationed here, with sweeping views across the Irthing Valley. It’s also a great spot for a tea break.

The final stretch towards Once Brewed passes crags and dramatic dips along the Whin Sill escarpment. With each rise and fall, the Wall becomes more iconic—this is the scenery most people picture when they think of Hadrian’s Wall.

 

 

Tips for These Stages:

• Distance: Carlisle to Banks is roughly 13 miles (21 km); Banks to Once Brewed is about 9 miles (14 km), but feels tougher.
• Terrain: Day 2 is mostly flat and easy; Day 3 becomes hilly, rocky, and far more exposed.
• Food & Facilities: Limited cafes after Carlisle—carry snacks and water. Once Brewed offers pub meals and accommodation.
• Don’t Miss: Banks East Turret, Hare Hill, Birdoswald Fort, Steel Rigg, and those sweeping escarpment views.